Thursday, July 12, 2012

Indulgences and Mouchoirs

For anyone considering a Eurotrip while already in Spain, the people at Sants Estacio are incredibly helpful.  After fumbling through internet advice threads and the Renfe webpage (Spanish train system site, once described as "a bit surreal.  It's like Alice in Wonderland, where nothing seems to be what it really is"), I slunk over to Sants Estacio on the brink of defeat with a long list of questions.  And magically, they produced two sheets of paper that answered all of them, with a list of prices and special summer offers as well as all of the additional fees for the high speed trains.  Magic!
Since I was already in the area, I tried to check out the La Fira Bar, a mystical place decorated with the remnants of old Tibidabo amusement park rides.  How could I not want to go?  Sadly, the place was closed, with this entertaining artwork on the outside.
I asked nextdoor, and they gave me the improbably answer that it was only open on Friday and Saturday nights starting at 11:30.  This may be true, given that it's Spain and people sort of make their own hours (except the being closed on Sunday part, which the government regulates in several areas).  I'm still going to try to go, but in case I don't make it, I wanted to make sure it isn't forgotten.
I've really enjoyed my neighborhood wanders the last few days, so I set off to explore the nearby streets.  Thus followed my shutterbug happiness whenever I saw something ridiculous:
A giant (probably 6-foot tall) tinfoil parrot decorating the window of this hair salon
Beware! Female Americans for sale for only 15 euros a piece. 
Dadaist flower arrangements, for those of you who prefer your house decorations just that little bit kooky
I ended up doing a bit of shopping in the area, too - my first foray into the world of Rebaixes.  If your wardrobe is at all lacking, I insist that you indulge yourself.  I picked up four dresses and a pair of jeans for less than $60.  Let's hope that it doesn't cost me an extra $50 at the airport in a few weeks...

Then came the main event of the night: meeting up with Naaman to go to Sala Montjuic.  High atop Montjuic, thousands of people gather for an open-air movie shown on the castle grounds on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays from the end of June through July.  That's right, you're surrounded by this giant fortress, but also by people picnicking and otherwise delighting in the pure joy of relaxation on a beautiful summer night.
Shuttle service from the two towers at Plaza Espanya was supposed to start at 8:30, but we couldn't find any special buses so we took the regular service at 8:30 sharp.
My first bus in Barcelona!
By the time we got to the top, there were already thousands of people there, camped out with picnics and families and libations to celebrate this wonderful summer tradition.  The line
The venue
We managed to snag a spot for our towel between other campers, with a great angle for viewing the huge screen.  We bought a few snacks from the food stand, 

including empanadas that they called samosas (interesting?) that were delicious.
And then, as darkness blanketed the field, the live band wrapped up and the movie began.  We were watching Little White Lies, a French movie about a group of friends who go on vacation together each year. 
To complicate their annual vacation plans, one of the group members got in a terrible motorcycle accident and has stayed behind for treatment in the hospital.  Oh, and one guy confesses to be in love with another guy.  They're both married and the one who confessed his love is the other guy's masseuse/chiropractor.  Hilarity ensues, but also grief.
I will admit that my French movie viewing is usually limited to romantic comedies, so I was a bit... surprised by some of the movie's content.  In the first hour, the idea of a threesome was casually dropped into conversation, one woman was watching animated porn, one man got stuck in mud and pulled out completely naked, everyone was smoking up a storm, and... it was all casual.  These were mere moments in the plot, nothing surprising, often good for a laugh.  The rest of the movie revolved around the everyday grief of life and the hyperanxious man whose best friend is in love with him.
Sadly, Naaman and I had to leave before the movie was over in order to catch the Metro (which closes at midnight).  Well, that was our plan.  None of the buses would budge to go down the hill until the movie was over, the funicular was closed, and by the time we got down to the Metro station, that was closed, too.  So, heck, we decided to walk.  All over the city.  We probably walked about an hour and a half together before we parted and she continued on to her apartment.  But that's the magical thing about living in a beautiful Mediterranean city.  It's always a beautiful night for a long walk.

No comments: