Pursestrings: The Quest to Personally Revive the Spanish Economy

I'm pretty sure that I have spent more money in the last two days on museums than I have on food during my entire trip.  You might say this is an exaggeration, and you would probably be right, but it is expensive to join the Gaudi fan club.  Here, the number of museums that I've seen is directly related to the weight of my purse, since I watch the 50 euro bills that the ATM spits out dissolve into endless quantities of small-value coins.

To backtrack a bit, this post actually starts with last night.  Naaman and I decided to hit up the beach club scene, since we've both become grandmas and usually curl up with movies before bed instead of being social.  Hence, at 11 pm we changed out of our pajamas, met up at the Passeig de Gracia metro stop, and yawned the whole way down to the beach.  Off to a great start.  On the walk form the metro to the clubs, we picked up the various little tickets for the clubs, which are handed out by random employees in the 300 meters before you actually get there.  These were for free entrance (instead of paying 15 euros), so we hoarded them in our pockets.  We got to the door of Opium, which is one of the most famous clubs in Barcelona, and presented our itty bitty tickets.  The two guards looked at us incredulously and asked for identification.  We realized that they didn't even think we were 18.  Humiliation.  We soon realized whey they gave us such strange; everyone downstairs was in the 30-40 range, living it up.  The dance floor was empty (hey, it was still "early", only midnight) and everyone was seated at little tables of sprawled on these couch things in one big side room that opened onto the beach.  After passing a bouncer who exclaimed, "Ninas!" (little girls), we took the most available-looking seats, which were on the giant couch thing, and proceeded to have a loooooong chat.

It was a nice chance to relax and hang out, while avoiding the 12 euro drinks (Pro tip: absolutely never make eye contact with a waiter).  Around 1 AM, we scouted around for an open gelato place, failed, and went home.  Regardless, it was a nice night, and a beautiful one.

After seriously sleeping in this morning, I roused myself to do battle with more tourist sights.  Fortified by large quantities of cereal (either the boxes are smaller here or I eat breakfast like the Hulk... I go through a box every 3 days!), I headed off to Casa Batllo.

It’s a townhouse that Gaudi made for the Batlló family, part of the surge of bourgeoisie building on Passeig de Gracia.  It’s part of the Block of Discord (known for all of the competing styles used by famous architects on these grand townhouses) and completely steals the show.  Curves, fascinating balconies, huge windows – but it’s the colorful broken tile mosaics that really catch your eye.  It has been compared to Monet’s water lilies, and I think it’s a fitting comparison.  The whole house seems oddly aquatic, with a fish scale pattern painted on all the walls, no right angles (take THAT Eero Saarinen… if you made Morse and Stiles as cool as this, maybe people would like them despite their lack of right angles), and blues and greens throughout the house.

At the rear end of the house, a private courtyard hosts a patterned tile floor, glass and tile mosaics on the walls, and intricately painted ceramic pots holding enormous plants.  The rear façade of the house is also striking, with wrought iron balconies (wrought metal is apparently a shout out to Gaudí’s dad.  That man was proud of his roots), more tile mosaics, and a hint at the roof.

The roof, of course, is one of the most famous parts of the house.  It has the whole mushroomy Gaudi shape thing going on.  It’s one of those we-don’t-know-what-this-is-but-we-like-it moments, where you have a gut reaction that something is cool and then leave it to the historians and your audioguide to explain the symbolism from nature that Gaudi was evoking through his medium of broken tiles and cement.

Note: Gaudi even designed the furniture and the door handles, both of which were supposed to be ergonomic perfection.

After bidding Gaudi farewell, I took a walk along the rest of the Block of Discord, soaking up the slightly more traditional styles.  The buildings were all gorgeous, although I think that’s how I feel about nearly architecture in Barcelona.  Here’re a few views of the houses and my favorite little gargoyle guy.  You’ve got to love an architect with a wry-smile sense of humor.

Casa Amatller, by Josep Puig i Cadafalch (what a name)

 Casa Lleo Morera by Lluis Domenech i Muntaner, who also designed the Catalan Concert Hall

 What I think was Fundacio Antoni Tapies, also designed by Muntaner

Since I was already walking that direction, I also did part of the Rick Steve’s walking tour down Las Ramblas.  Traditionally a market street, Las Ramblas is now the center of tourist activity in Barcelona.  The food is advertised in superlatives, the hostels are abundant, and tiny shops abound.  Here are a few highlights:

 There's a giant pet store!

 And then lots of plant stores.  One had a notable cactus display.  I didn't realize that was a thing.

 This was listed in the guide book as "your run-of-the-mill European eroticism museum." My WHAT? Note the hostel right above it.  I feel like this is what my mom's first apartment in NYC was like. (Hi, Mom!)

 A statue for Cristopher Columbus, as he was sent off here in 1492.

Finally, I met up with Naaman tonight to visit the festival in Barceloneta.  Barceloneta is the small fishing village part of the city, and is right on the water.  I didn’t get as much of a small village feel as I was expecting after reading up on the place, but it was wonderful and the coast is beautiful.  The festival turned out to be groups of people dressed in matching costumes dancing with fake axes and other props (Swiffers, pipes, light sabers, prepackaged food… you name it) with a band playing before the whole lot of them moved to the next block and another group sashayed over.

We watched a few acts, then hit up the food stalls by the water.

 

Hot churros frying.  Mmmmm

Cheese!

All sorts of baked goods.  I really need to learn Catalan.

Traditional candies as well as some more modern ones.  I was tempted by a dulce de leche and chocolate layered fudge.

Sausage is often the meat of choice here.  (See blog post on Saturday's excursion)

The most incredible jam maker alive.  I tried Strawberries in Sweet Wine, Pineapple and Coconut, Pear, Apple and Cinnamon, and several others.  I didn't get a chance to try their Onion, Sweet Potato, or other more savory ones.  Next time!  I am currently supplied with jam for eternity.

Spotted: Water fountains.  These decorative fountains around the city provide a place to fill your water bottle.  Each one is unique and most are beautiful (the ones in Madrid, by contrast, are huge slabs of concrete with spouts).

The gold-and-black one in Las Ramblas (above) even has a legend: if you take a sip of its water, you’ll return to Barcelona someday.  Drink up!