A Whole Lot of Walking

The last two days have been chock full of Madrid touristy-ness and live like a local-ness thanks to Diana and her friend Julia, who indulge my just-got-here energy and show me their favorite places around the city.  Julia is a student at Brown and, like Diana, is studying here through Boston University's study abroad program.

Yesterday (Thursday) morning began at around 11 AM.  Diana and I left the apartment and walked through Graffiti Park (as we affectionately call it) and past the old men playing bocce (I saw this repeatedly in parks).  We took the Metro to the Reina Sofia, a beautiful museum composed of several buildings that are joined together in mysterious ways.  It is incredibly difficult to navigate floors sometimes, but the exhibits themselves were wonderfully laid out.  We began with the Guernica rooms, which depict Picasso's studies, the work in progress, propaganda of the time to provide context, and then the final, overpowering piece itself.  It's much more striking in person than in a Spanish textbook, and I finally understand how those people felt in Paris when it was first unveiled and they beheld the horror of war.  From my guide book, I learned that the pictures of the painting in progress were taken by one of Picasso's many mistresses, whose portrait hangs in the adjacent room.

Other works included Picasso's Seated Woman Resting on her Elbows (1939)

Picasso's The Swimmer (as Diana said, SHE TOTALLY LOOKS LIKE SHE'S GASPING FOR AIR AS SHE COMES UP FOR A STROKE!)

And a piece in the modern art exhibit called Grass Grows which was originally exhibited at Cornell and is literally a giant Chia pet afro on the floor:

After the Reina Sofia, we went to Mama Framboise, a lovely cafe where we spent the afternoon talking and enjoying good food.  We had quiche, Diana had a cafe con leche, and at the end of the meal we shared two little pies - one apple with a slightly salted crust, the other a Crunch-chunk-crusted chocolate-raspberry mousse with a raspberry on top.  So divine.  After this piece of heaven, Diana headed off to class while I navigated (by myself!) home (see: http://thetimeistudiedabroad.tumblr.com/post/21382300992/when-i-successfully-navigate-public-transportation-for).  I then went on a run along the nearby river, which has a park that extends about 5 miles in one direction.  It was a beautiful place to run, full of life as people walked, biked, and rollerbladed.  There were little playgrounds and benches along various parts of the path, as well as a herd of wooden sculpture warthogs at one point.  About three miles in, giant floating birdhouses in the middle of the river started appearing.  Another mile passed and fishermen began dotting the banks, relaxing as their poles dangled over the water.  It was incredible and felt soooooooo good to get that energy out.

After my run, I had the pleasure of getting to know Diana's host family a bit more, and then Diana took me out for what she claimed was "the best goat cheese tapa place EVER."  I heard "cheese" and was a goner.  We headed out and had just sat down when we found out that Julia and her friend were a few doors away.  They joined us, and we devoured two orders of the goat cheese from heaven.  It was a round cylinder of slightly warmed goat cheese topped with the sweetest caramelized onions in a rum reduction (according to Diana... I just knew it was sweet).  We spread it on crackers (tostadas) that he hostess kept bringing because she was really nice but also in love with Julia's friend (convenient).

After that, we parted ways and I picked up some raspberry gelato before heading home.

Today, we woke up late and walked through the city center a bit, past the most magnificent post office ever

and up to the the Retiro, a huge park that used to be where kings retired (hence the name) but which was opened to the public and is wonderful.  There's a giant manmade lake in the center where you can rent paddleboats, but in the interest of my unsunburned skin, we merely wandered.  Julia met us in the Retiro, and we headed to a cafe for chicken empanadas, cafe con leche (for them), and... alfajores! Yum.  Alfajores consist of two cookies (the type may vary slightly, but they are generally thin, crumbly circles) with a thick layer of dulce de leche (the most amazing caramel in the world) or another sweet, thick substance.  I was obsessed with them when I lived in Chile, and I am still an alfajor fanatic.  Every bite required a moment to sit back and just savor the melting caramel.

Julia and Diana then headed to another class, while I took my Rick Steve's walking tour of Madrid, went to the Ballet Russo exhibit at the Caixa Forum, and then relaxed in the Puerta del Sol plaza and read.  I'm a bit redder for the experience, but it was a wonderful day.

Other fun pictures:

Playing with Sheba, the puppy that Diana's host family's daughters brought home without telling their mom

 A piece called Limit (Implosion) at the Reina Sofia

A piece called News 1969/2012 at the Reina Sofia

Me with one of the many colorful penguin sculptures around Madrid.  They seem to be an art installation similar to the cows that decorated Stamford ten years ago.

And a most dreadful Spotted:

There is a dreadful trend in Madrid of men having short hair and then one (or two) long dreaded rat tails.  I do not approve.  Beside that, though, Madrid is pretty great!  A wonderful side trip to start the summer.  Thanks, Diana!